40 minutes on the back of a boda-boda and 100 smiling "Muzungu!!!" salutes from villagers, landed me in pineapple country. -- Kamuronko, where Stanley is principal of a primary school. He is father to Comfort, the incredibly talented artist who was my cameraman last visit. When Stanley invited me to do a volleyball demo at his school, I accepted, of course, unaware of the gorgeous valley and the wild reception that awaited me.
The long road to Kamuronko wound through the most verdant lands I've seen in Uganda, a lazy river winding through dairy country where black and white cows graze in belly-deep grass. The soaring hills feature eucalyptus and pine, and patchworks of banana, papaya and eventually vast fields of pineapple as the land flattens. A small dam that had brought electricity to this removed area, had been dead for a decade, but was sputtering back to life in recent weeks. And the huge storks, cranes and eagles that paralleled my path kept my head spnning.
Dennis, my driver, urged his moto up the rocky slope to the open grassy hilltop featuring a ragged drooping net between eucalyptus poles, flanked by long classroom structures with windows full of faces instead of glass. A moto, strange, and a Muzungu, even stranger.
Stanley greeted us and presented me a guest book to sign, a ritual I knew well by now. Novel, however, were the mountains of freshly sliced pineapple on two plates brought in by his smiling secretary. We attacked them willingly after the long lunchless ride.
School ended and the 500 kids, clad in olive green, hastily assembled around the court, dutifully obeying Stanley's command. They were absolutely silent and attentive as I introduced myself and spoke of brotherhood through sports, and Todd Rogers' gold medal, and my family at home who taught schools full of children like them this very day. Stanley translated into Ruchiga, and the kids oohed and aahed in unison at my revelations. They erupted in screams and laughter when I ended the speech with a decent skyball, sent up only after confirming the absence of overhead airplanes. I just wish that Dana Camacho had been here to really give them a thrill.
With 10 on each side, including teachers and rotations of selected students, we played for an hour. Dozens scurried after the ball that left the dense grouping at courtside every 3rd or 4th contact at first. But as skills improved and rallies lengthened, the group began to say "boom" at each play, until someone would finaly win to wild cheers. I'd set Stanley often, who could sling it downover the low point of the net to a terminal kill. I'd roll up his sleeve , amazed at his bicep, and 500 voices would howl.
When we finished, all settled about me for my final address. I thanked them in Ruchiga for the afternoon, and presented the school with the ball that Dillan Bennet had given me, after I inscribed it "a gift from the students of Santa Barbara"
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Kagunga Dawn
Feb. 8
At 7 AM , the sounds belong to roosters, the sky to the filtered sunbursts dodging the vast shelf of scattered cloud. Steep canyons of terraced green farmland hug me and the lake before me, in every direction, as an early mist still swaddles several distant shores.
Yesterday's magical moments return -- the 40 minute motor ride from Rukinda market to this far reach of Lake Bunyonyi, the climb to Kabunga parrish, changing discreetly into formal clothes for the church service, delivered exclusively in Rukiga. The congregation had rarely seen Muzungus (whites) and several of the younger children cried as many do upon seeing Santa Claus. They had heard stories of youngsters being eaten by Muzungus, and I was huge and frightening. But the reverend welcomed us warmly and sat us on stage in seats of honor. I spoke to the hundred wide-eyed smiling people before me of brotherhood in belief in family, friendship and sport. Dogeared Bibles and hymn books spoke of decades of intense use, and the drumbeats and dancing made for the most colorful service I've ever seen. Offerings were collected according to your community of residence, and corn, squash, bananas and eggs filled the baskets as well as coins. The goods were later raffled off and turned into cash for parrish projects.
Afterward I dined with the Reverend and showed him the magic of burning incense I'd brought from the 99 cent store in Santa Barbara. I promised to send him a Bible that the Westmont V-ball team had given me 25 years ago, and he blessed me deeply.
Later, smiling men huddled with me in a dark bar, drinking "home brew". All were warm and congenial, as another "middle born" and one of my "age-mates" became solid friends. Local characters, Mechanical John and a dozen others led us on an evening walk along a road through the villages, where tales of elephant and leopard and Pigmy archers animated the coming dark. Not a single TV or automobile intruded in this land without electrical power, but with energy in abundance.
I met the parents and family of my host, Fred, who had invited me to the baptism of his first born, Liberty, some months ago. I'd been unable to attend and this was a belated but solemn introduction to his fantastic community and loved ones.
As we walked off the next morning, his mom ran up the path after us to say another goodbye, and thank me for the fish necklace from Tonga that I'd given her. And I will never forget her smile, and the hug I gave her that embarrassed her so.
The long ride back across the lake gave me time to process this incredible entree to the true richness of this people, this place, and this life.
At 7 AM , the sounds belong to roosters, the sky to the filtered sunbursts dodging the vast shelf of scattered cloud. Steep canyons of terraced green farmland hug me and the lake before me, in every direction, as an early mist still swaddles several distant shores.
Yesterday's magical moments return -- the 40 minute motor ride from Rukinda market to this far reach of Lake Bunyonyi, the climb to Kabunga parrish, changing discreetly into formal clothes for the church service, delivered exclusively in Rukiga. The congregation had rarely seen Muzungus (whites) and several of the younger children cried as many do upon seeing Santa Claus. They had heard stories of youngsters being eaten by Muzungus, and I was huge and frightening. But the reverend welcomed us warmly and sat us on stage in seats of honor. I spoke to the hundred wide-eyed smiling people before me of brotherhood in belief in family, friendship and sport. Dogeared Bibles and hymn books spoke of decades of intense use, and the drumbeats and dancing made for the most colorful service I've ever seen. Offerings were collected according to your community of residence, and corn, squash, bananas and eggs filled the baskets as well as coins. The goods were later raffled off and turned into cash for parrish projects.
Afterward I dined with the Reverend and showed him the magic of burning incense I'd brought from the 99 cent store in Santa Barbara. I promised to send him a Bible that the Westmont V-ball team had given me 25 years ago, and he blessed me deeply.
Later, smiling men huddled with me in a dark bar, drinking "home brew". All were warm and congenial, as another "middle born" and one of my "age-mates" became solid friends. Local characters, Mechanical John and a dozen others led us on an evening walk along a road through the villages, where tales of elephant and leopard and Pigmy archers animated the coming dark. Not a single TV or automobile intruded in this land without electrical power, but with energy in abundance.
I met the parents and family of my host, Fred, who had invited me to the baptism of his first born, Liberty, some months ago. I'd been unable to attend and this was a belated but solemn introduction to his fantastic community and loved ones.
As we walked off the next morning, his mom ran up the path after us to say another goodbye, and thank me for the fish necklace from Tonga that I'd given her. And I will never forget her smile, and the hug I gave her that embarrassed her so.
The long ride back across the lake gave me time to process this incredible entree to the true richness of this people, this place, and this life.
Tranquil Times
Feb. 5
Now begin the days of tranquility - official self-proclaimed duties as court builder, meeting moderator and educational liason all successfully executed. I become a reader - of Lawrence Durrell, whose eloquence I hope influences my own prose ... of The Daily Monitor and New Vision, newspapers that chronicle the political and social dramas of the region, past and present, as the presidential election approaches. It is the 5th, and they will occur on the 18th. Like in the US, they will determine a great deal, and I plan on being absent for the impact. Perhaps in Rwanda with my friend Frederick, in Gisenyi on the shore of Lake Kivu. Fort Portal in the Rwenzori Mountains and a date with a school in Lira to to north are the only items on my itinerary.
I'm running low on nets and balls. The dozens of laughing orphans at the Foundations home who played yesterday on the net I brought, are all I could have intended for my cargo. Chelsea, a daughter of Kent Kitchell's neighbor, held one pole in place, while another attendant secured the other, as I played on the lawn with the kids, trying to teach technique, which surrendered to general chaos and hilarity as young bodies flew and fell, and happiness reigned in their lives ... at least for those fleeting moments.
I also play with the university team at a nearby pre-school that has a nice court. The 4-hour rain yesterday morning had soaked in by 5 PM when some talented players arrived to play. Several could make the Royals squad this year, so they're quite good. I feel lucky for the victory I earned yesterday (28-26 in a game to 21) and the chance to coach these kids who could be awesome with just a little direction. I will leave them the SB Club jerseys that KC gave me, lightening my backpack and perpetuating the legacy of Santa Barbara in this exotic corner of Uganda.
Now begin the days of tranquility - official self-proclaimed duties as court builder, meeting moderator and educational liason all successfully executed. I become a reader - of Lawrence Durrell, whose eloquence I hope influences my own prose ... of The Daily Monitor and New Vision, newspapers that chronicle the political and social dramas of the region, past and present, as the presidential election approaches. It is the 5th, and they will occur on the 18th. Like in the US, they will determine a great deal, and I plan on being absent for the impact. Perhaps in Rwanda with my friend Frederick, in Gisenyi on the shore of Lake Kivu. Fort Portal in the Rwenzori Mountains and a date with a school in Lira to to north are the only items on my itinerary.
I'm running low on nets and balls. The dozens of laughing orphans at the Foundations home who played yesterday on the net I brought, are all I could have intended for my cargo. Chelsea, a daughter of Kent Kitchell's neighbor, held one pole in place, while another attendant secured the other, as I played on the lawn with the kids, trying to teach technique, which surrendered to general chaos and hilarity as young bodies flew and fell, and happiness reigned in their lives ... at least for those fleeting moments.
I also play with the university team at a nearby pre-school that has a nice court. The 4-hour rain yesterday morning had soaked in by 5 PM when some talented players arrived to play. Several could make the Royals squad this year, so they're quite good. I feel lucky for the victory I earned yesterday (28-26 in a game to 21) and the chance to coach these kids who could be awesome with just a little direction. I will leave them the SB Club jerseys that KC gave me, lightening my backpack and perpetuating the legacy of Santa Barbara in this exotic corner of Uganda.
Monday, February 7, 2011
Tranquil times
Feb. 5
Now begin the days of tranquility - official self-proclaimed duties as court builder, meeting moderator and educational liason all successfully executed. I become a reader, of Lawrence Durrell, an author whose eloquence I hope influences my prose; of the Daily Monitor and New Vision, newspapers that chronicle the political and social dramas of the region, past and present, as the presidential election approaches. It is now the 5th, and they wil occur on the 18th, and like in the US they will determine a great deal. I plan on being absent for the impact, perhaps in Rwanda, only an hour to the south. Only Fort Portal in the Rwenzori Mountains and a date with a school in Lira to the north, remain on my itinerary.
I'm running short on v-vall nets and balls. The dozens of laughing orphans at the Foundations home who now play daily on the net I brought are all I could have intended for my cargo. Chelsea, a daughter of Kent Kitchell's neighbor, holds one pole in place while another attendant aecures the other. I play on the lawn with the kids, trying to teach technique which surrenders to general chaos and hilarity as young bodies fly and fall, and happiness reigns in their lives ... at least for the moment.
I also play with the university team at a nearby pre-school that has a nice court. The 4 hour rain yesterday morning had soaked in by 5PM when some talented players arrived to play. Several could make the Royals squad this year, so they are quite good. I'm glad for the victory I earned the day before (28-26 in a game to 21) and the chance to coach these
Now begin the days of tranquility - official self-proclaimed duties as court builder, meeting moderator and educational liason all successfully executed. I become a reader, of Lawrence Durrell, an author whose eloquence I hope influences my prose; of the Daily Monitor and New Vision, newspapers that chronicle the political and social dramas of the region, past and present, as the presidential election approaches. It is now the 5th, and they wil occur on the 18th, and like in the US they will determine a great deal. I plan on being absent for the impact, perhaps in Rwanda, only an hour to the south. Only Fort Portal in the Rwenzori Mountains and a date with a school in Lira to the north, remain on my itinerary.
I'm running short on v-vall nets and balls. The dozens of laughing orphans at the Foundations home who now play daily on the net I brought are all I could have intended for my cargo. Chelsea, a daughter of Kent Kitchell's neighbor, holds one pole in place while another attendant aecures the other. I play on the lawn with the kids, trying to teach technique which surrenders to general chaos and hilarity as young bodies fly and fall, and happiness reigns in their lives ... at least for the moment.
I also play with the university team at a nearby pre-school that has a nice court. The 4 hour rain yesterday morning had soaked in by 5PM when some talented players arrived to play. Several could make the Royals squad this year, so they are quite good. I'm glad for the victory I earned the day before (28-26 in a game to 21) and the chance to coach these
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Kabale Kool
Feb.3
This morning I met with the deputy principal, and then the principal of the Kabale branch of Uganda Christian University, and it was incredible. Brian, a local orphan who I've been sending to the University set up the meeting. The leaders were very enthusiastic about collaboration with UCSB, and already have several American professors teaching there so it would be an easy interaction. Dean Conoley's letter from UCSB's graduate school of education is perfect and is opening doors at every hand, so many more Californian's may soon know the serenity and beauty of this little corner of Southwest Uganda, where the air is cool, Lake Bunyonyi is gorgeous, and smiles are the order of the day.
I presided over a three day meeting of Edirisa, the group I worked for two years ago, and new divisions and directions were determined. The people who attended were from all over the world, united by the mission of respecting Africa and assisting in non-traditional ways. All attendees, Ugandans, British, Irish, Swiss, Slovenians and a couple of us Americans were all such dynamic interesting folk that the friendships developed were just as gratifying as the work accomplished. It ended with Edirisa Multi Media, Tours and Hostel branching off from the Smiles primary education programs and it should make for a smoother operation. Those who would like to volunteer to teach for a month or two (or six) in a fantastic part of Africa have a new conduit to broaden your views of this awesome continent.Edirisa UK is growing and looking for energetic and talented volunteers for placements in many fields. It is inviting.
Jan 31
Eight locals died at the lake yesterday. A blast of wind overturned the loaded dugout canoe they were in and most couldn't swim. They panicked and only a couple swam to the shore. Most people here can't swim. One of Edirisa's projects is to teach kids to do so, but we are battling fears of dark water and very steep shorlines. It is tough to change the course of things in Africa. It is hard to imagine such pain with the tranquil scene of Lake Bunyoni before me, dugouts sliding left to right toward the market day at Rutinda on the lakeside. Students have already been deposited here at Bufuka and climbed the hill to school. We sit on the porch at the Heart of Edirisa, a cup of Afri-Cafe and wonderfully accented conversation to entertain us - as the oppisite terraced hillside of Chayabinga reflect on it all.
Jan. 28
Kashambya. Say the word, sound it out - Kah Sham Bee Yah. That's half the un of talking about Africa - the exotic names of places and things. There is now a volleyball court in Kashambya, beneath the new secondary school of Professor Wilson, with it's blue roofs and new brick that climb the hillside. The football field (soccer pitch) beside the court, was the only sport facility within miles, but two hours of machete and hoe labor by 15 students and teachers cleared the "bush" for court construction.
A strong armed Bakiga man trimmed two eucalyptus poles, selected for their straight strength, to proper length while we layed out the court dimensions. Another man dug out the three foot deep holes with a spear. The poles rose and the net I brought from Big 5 was unfurled like that flag on Iwo Jima. Children played with the balls that Dillan Bennet had sent with me from Laguna Blanca -- crudely at first, then with more and more control. The ten-contact goal was soon passed and Andrew, an 11 year old athlete, soon emerged as the best. The string lengthened to 30 in a row amid wild celebration.
Professor Wilson dreams of bringing kids from all over the bvalled in the name of volleyball, and naming the teams Santa Barbara.
Volleyball camp Uganda is now in place ... in Kashambya ... and my ambitions realized.
This morning I met with the deputy principal, and then the principal of the Kabale branch of Uganda Christian University, and it was incredible. Brian, a local orphan who I've been sending to the University set up the meeting. The leaders were very enthusiastic about collaboration with UCSB, and already have several American professors teaching there so it would be an easy interaction. Dean Conoley's letter from UCSB's graduate school of education is perfect and is opening doors at every hand, so many more Californian's may soon know the serenity and beauty of this little corner of Southwest Uganda, where the air is cool, Lake Bunyonyi is gorgeous, and smiles are the order of the day.
I presided over a three day meeting of Edirisa, the group I worked for two years ago, and new divisions and directions were determined. The people who attended were from all over the world, united by the mission of respecting Africa and assisting in non-traditional ways. All attendees, Ugandans, British, Irish, Swiss, Slovenians and a couple of us Americans were all such dynamic interesting folk that the friendships developed were just as gratifying as the work accomplished. It ended with Edirisa Multi Media, Tours and Hostel branching off from the Smiles primary education programs and it should make for a smoother operation. Those who would like to volunteer to teach for a month or two (or six) in a fantastic part of Africa have a new conduit to broaden your views of this awesome continent.Edirisa UK is growing and looking for energetic and talented volunteers for placements in many fields. It is inviting.
Jan 31
Eight locals died at the lake yesterday. A blast of wind overturned the loaded dugout canoe they were in and most couldn't swim. They panicked and only a couple swam to the shore. Most people here can't swim. One of Edirisa's projects is to teach kids to do so, but we are battling fears of dark water and very steep shorlines. It is tough to change the course of things in Africa. It is hard to imagine such pain with the tranquil scene of Lake Bunyoni before me, dugouts sliding left to right toward the market day at Rutinda on the lakeside. Students have already been deposited here at Bufuka and climbed the hill to school. We sit on the porch at the Heart of Edirisa, a cup of Afri-Cafe and wonderfully accented conversation to entertain us - as the oppisite terraced hillside of Chayabinga reflect on it all.
Jan. 28
Kashambya. Say the word, sound it out - Kah Sham Bee Yah. That's half the un of talking about Africa - the exotic names of places and things. There is now a volleyball court in Kashambya, beneath the new secondary school of Professor Wilson, with it's blue roofs and new brick that climb the hillside. The football field (soccer pitch) beside the court, was the only sport facility within miles, but two hours of machete and hoe labor by 15 students and teachers cleared the "bush" for court construction.
A strong armed Bakiga man trimmed two eucalyptus poles, selected for their straight strength, to proper length while we layed out the court dimensions. Another man dug out the three foot deep holes with a spear. The poles rose and the net I brought from Big 5 was unfurled like that flag on Iwo Jima. Children played with the balls that Dillan Bennet had sent with me from Laguna Blanca -- crudely at first, then with more and more control. The ten-contact goal was soon passed and Andrew, an 11 year old athlete, soon emerged as the best. The string lengthened to 30 in a row amid wild celebration.
Professor Wilson dreams of bringing kids from all over the bvalled in the name of volleyball, and naming the teams Santa Barbara.
Volleyball camp Uganda is now in place ... in Kashambya ... and my ambitions realized.
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Into (as opposed to out of) Africa
So much that was forgotten that is now so familiar.
After only 3 days it all becomes abundantly reminiscent of my trip two years ago: the smells of people and diesel and a hundred burning substances; the omnipresent need that only a few dollars could make go away, for a moment or a month; the general squalor of discarded bottles and plastic trash that becomes invisible in time but that shocks Western sensibilities until that day; and the beautiful timeless beauty of so many eyes and faces that erupt into smiles when you return their "Hi Mizungo" with a doffed hat and a comment.
I've returned a thousand eye contacts walking through the ramshakle but invigorating mud based communities around my home, found some fabulous string trick talent in kids I've met, and learned some new string moves from a maid at the house where people have been hosting me. To the children, Philip and Petra, I'm "Unka Jon", a large, sweaty but very entertaining Mizungo.
Today I pumped 6 jerry cans full of water from a well, at 100 shillings (5 cents) per, for the right to do so. The entrepeneur justs sits there and watches the cash roll in. He's the envy of all.
Yesterday I hired a driver for 30 dollars (note the disparity in value) to drive me to and around Makarere University where I tried to make inroads with the teacher education community. It was graduation day, so I unexpectedly got a first row seat at the very colorful proceedings as professors read off lists of names in radiant robes festooned with brilliant reds and greens and golds. Maribu storks in the hundreds animating every view, hats on dignitaries out of that Dr. Seuss book, and students cheering hysterically in the flush of pride and accomplishment, and blissfully unaware of their sad job prospects. Ruth, my guide and a teacher grad of Makarere, is still looking for a job 2 years later. But it was a glorious grad day as I've seen the world over, with proud parents and young adults, anxious for the party to begin.
I made 5 or 6 great contacts with professors and administerative secretaries who were awed by the letter from Jane Conoley, Dean of UCSB's Grad School of Education. A meeitng may be forthcoming in mid-Feb when I return to Kampala. Perhaps something rich and enduring will materialize. Teachers of several schools are eagerly awaiting my visits in the north for net construction and coaching clinics, and those results I can almost guarantee. And I will soon head back to Kabale in the south for the General Edirisa Meeting, and reunions with a dozen friends. I'm anxious.
I sit at a tour camp in Kampala, with a nice internet facility, anticipating a three day trip to the headwaters of the Nile, where hippos, lions, wildebeast, giraffes and exotic feathered wildlife awaits I'm told. With my Birds of East Africa, and my binoculars, I'm somewhat of a tourist again, and it will be enlightening on many fronts, I''m sure. Photos to come ...
After only 3 days it all becomes abundantly reminiscent of my trip two years ago: the smells of people and diesel and a hundred burning substances; the omnipresent need that only a few dollars could make go away, for a moment or a month; the general squalor of discarded bottles and plastic trash that becomes invisible in time but that shocks Western sensibilities until that day; and the beautiful timeless beauty of so many eyes and faces that erupt into smiles when you return their "Hi Mizungo" with a doffed hat and a comment.
I've returned a thousand eye contacts walking through the ramshakle but invigorating mud based communities around my home, found some fabulous string trick talent in kids I've met, and learned some new string moves from a maid at the house where people have been hosting me. To the children, Philip and Petra, I'm "Unka Jon", a large, sweaty but very entertaining Mizungo.
Today I pumped 6 jerry cans full of water from a well, at 100 shillings (5 cents) per, for the right to do so. The entrepeneur justs sits there and watches the cash roll in. He's the envy of all.
Yesterday I hired a driver for 30 dollars (note the disparity in value) to drive me to and around Makarere University where I tried to make inroads with the teacher education community. It was graduation day, so I unexpectedly got a first row seat at the very colorful proceedings as professors read off lists of names in radiant robes festooned with brilliant reds and greens and golds. Maribu storks in the hundreds animating every view, hats on dignitaries out of that Dr. Seuss book, and students cheering hysterically in the flush of pride and accomplishment, and blissfully unaware of their sad job prospects. Ruth, my guide and a teacher grad of Makarere, is still looking for a job 2 years later. But it was a glorious grad day as I've seen the world over, with proud parents and young adults, anxious for the party to begin.
I made 5 or 6 great contacts with professors and administerative secretaries who were awed by the letter from Jane Conoley, Dean of UCSB's Grad School of Education. A meeitng may be forthcoming in mid-Feb when I return to Kampala. Perhaps something rich and enduring will materialize. Teachers of several schools are eagerly awaiting my visits in the north for net construction and coaching clinics, and those results I can almost guarantee. And I will soon head back to Kabale in the south for the General Edirisa Meeting, and reunions with a dozen friends. I'm anxious.
I sit at a tour camp in Kampala, with a nice internet facility, anticipating a three day trip to the headwaters of the Nile, where hippos, lions, wildebeast, giraffes and exotic feathered wildlife awaits I'm told. With my Birds of East Africa, and my binoculars, I'm somewhat of a tourist again, and it will be enlightening on many fronts, I''m sure. Photos to come ...
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Pre-Departure Reflections and Images
I'm testing my blog abilities: posting and photo-fluency. It will all become quite a bit more difficult as I enter the land of "power cuts", limited internet acces and glacial computer speeds. So I need to bolster my confidence. All this techno stuff is tough for one who just recently (and with a daughter's help) learned how to change the image on his facebook profile. Alas.
So here are some photos of highlights of my last trip to Uganda, where I met fabulous friends that I will revisit, a beautiful city (Kabale) that I will reinhabit, and novelty that I relish.
So here are some photos of highlights of my last trip to Uganda, where I met fabulous friends that I will revisit, a beautiful city (Kabale) that I will reinhabit, and novelty that I relish.
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